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What did you do to your Jeep today? Lets have it, you now have a place to brag about your heep :)

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  #5811  
Old Yesterday, 11:59 AM
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Tonka Tonka is offline
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Originally Posted by rockbuggy View Post
Sounds like some bad luck. Those big heavy beadlocks are probably eating up those factory shafts. Is that still your daily driver?
The beadlocks may help to break shafts but its really just the comp pushing the limits of my jeep. Plus the beadlocks make my jeep a hell of lot more competitve because of the added traction. Normal trail riding for me only snaps shafts when im on the throttle asking for it. The comp on the other hand (this years courses especially) is designed to put you in very difficult technical lines, alot of the time the lines are setup to be binding and are not the lines you would take in any other situation. For me the front shaft went while trying to do an extremely steep climb but the way the gate was I was doing it in reverse because you had to come down the incline, cross the gate and go back up, there was no place to turn around once through the gate or you were out of bounds. We were the first team on the course so we dident have the benifit of watching others to make our decision on what to do. I was the 3rd driver on the course, the 2nd to make it to that point and the last of 28 to try and reverse up it. I had the entire weight of the jeep on that front axle and it wasent even a straight climb so I was turning and the joint failed. My first go at it I made it 3/4 of the way but was going to hit a cone so I came back down and it went on the intial bump of the throttle into my second try. Im not sure the angle but it was a steep hill that some rigs couldent climb going forward.

Its still my dd but hopefully not for long. If all goes well Im going to buy a truck soon and hopefully run the rc comps for the full season next year. Competing has been a ton of fun breakage or not.

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Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
Remember a couple weeks ago when you were wondering why I built my HPD30 as beefy as I did Tonka? It sux that you broke so much stuff though, I'm glad you were able to patch it all up for the trip home!
Thanks. I was only wondering why you spent that much and dident step up to a larger axle is all. I would have gone to a narrowed hp 60 or hp 44 for that $$.

Its tough though, when Im trail riding I know my limits and if I think something is going to break I can back off. In the comp its different, you do what you need to do to complete the course and hope your jeep stays together in the process. Your also on a team of 4 drivers so even though you could throw in the towell you dont want to let the team down. On the other side of the coin, the comp is awesome for that reason. Ive got a very experienced spotter thats competed for years and has me doing lines I would never attempt on my own wich makes it fun when it goes well. We also use radio head sets so the spotting is very precise and thorough, its not just a guy yelling driver/passenger. Sometimes we will do half a course in reverse so that we dont have to take back up points for turning around and in that case im driving blind by his directions. The climb I did before the one I broke on was crazy, the incline was enough that on foot you had to climb the hill from the other side because it was to steep to get up.

Ill post some video later but as ussual it doesent do it justice and unfortunatly I dont have video of the course I broke on.
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Last edited by Tonka; Yesterday at 12:04 PM.
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  #5812  
Old Yesterday, 12:13 PM
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Dude! Sounds awesome for sure! And yea Comp stuff is certainly hard wheeling for sure. I could never swallow the $$ of the parts I run just for trail riding... if I built a comp rig I'd be divorced by now.
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  #5813  
Old Yesterday, 12:14 PM
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Sounds like long arms and wontons would solve all your problems other than your wallet thickness...lol. Sounds like it would be fun to watch as well!
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.....then regret the heck out of it because of all the junk that's gonna fall on my face.
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  #5814  
Old Yesterday, 01:35 PM
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So heres what im contimplating. I dont want full widths because it puts me in a class 3 or even 4 for the comps. Those are the guys with fully built sponsored buggy's and tons of experience. They also run courses that roll them often. I could either build my hp30, build my d300, drop to 33's and swap my rear locker with an lsd and run class 1. That would be the best for my lack of experience and lack of wallet girth. Or, I could run class 2 wich would allow me to go to long arms, stay on 35's and I believe you can run bigger axles if they are stockish wheelbase. But I could probably go with the above plan and stay on 35's and still be competitive.

Also, keep in mind im having another kid soon and will be broke forever after that

As for the current issues. I ordered wheel lug inserts that should fix the wallowed issue and Alex will be making me a 5th beadlock with my spare that i can then switch and use the repaired one as my spare. I ordered the rubicon express upper control arm mount wich takes care of my bling wrenches that are currently holding things together and I also ordered some spicer Ball joints (wich by the way are super cheap on amazon). Ill also have to take my 4wd linkage apart and see if I can make a replacement for the peice that snapped or get it welded back together. After that, I either need another short side spare or to cough up some dough for chromo's.

What was the link that was posted awhile back with the good deal on the chromo's? I cant find it.
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Last edited by Tonka; Yesterday at 01:41 PM.
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  #5815  
Old Yesterday, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonka View Post
So heres what im contimplating. I dont want full widths because it puts me in a class 3 or even 4 for the comps. Those are the guys with fully built sponsored buggy's and tons of experience. They also run courses that roll them often. I could either build my hp30, build my d300, drop to 33's and swap my rear locker with an lsd and run class 1. That would be the best for my lack of experience and lack of wallet girth. Or, I could run class 2 wich would allow me to go to long arms, stay on 35's and I believe you can run bigger axles if they are stockish wheelbase. But I could probably go with the above plan and stay on 35's and still be competitive.

Also, keep in mind im having another kid soon and will be broke forever after that

As for the current issues. I ordered wheel lug inserts that should fix the wallowed issue and Alex will be making me a 5th beadlock with my spare that i can then switch and use the repaired one as my spare. I ordered the rubicon express upper control arm mount wich takes care of my bling wrenches that are currently holding things together and I also ordered some spicer Ball joints (wich by the way are super cheap on amazon). Ill also have to take my 4wd linkage apart and see if I can make a replacement for the peice that snapped or get it welded back together. After that, I either need another short side spare or to cough up some dough for chromo's.

What was the link that was posted awhile back with the good deal on the chromo's? I cant find it.
Are you allowed to run RCV's in the class you currently run in? They're just as strong at full turn as they are going straight, which is one of their secrets to being so strong. I believe they're billet steel, 300 or something unobtanium also, but I can't remember exactly. I know they're stronger than Chromoly with U-joints though. And a U-joint axle is weakest when turned. As far as your control arm mounts, they will live longer happier lives if you switch to some sort of cartridge joint, or rod ends. Johnny Joints, The new Metal Cloak joints, I believe Rock Krawler now has a joint of their own. Ballistic fab makes a decent joint, but I hear they're very unpredictable to order from. Then you have SRE's which aren't the best for a daily driver, but are time tested on comp rigs all over the world.

Also, if you're planning on running a bunch of courses in reverse that would be the one time I recommend switching to a TJ Rubicon D44 axle instead of the HPD30. The reason being that the Rubi D44 is a low pinion, which will be stronger when backing up a steep hill with the full weight of the Jeep on it. An HPD30 will actually be weaker than the factory stock D30 while in reverse so in your case I wouldn't recommend it.
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